Georgia and Armenia are smaller than I realized. A truck brought me at the border of Armenia and disappeared. Fortunately now an old truck stops and gives me a ride. Two young guys are inspecting me constantly. They speak 5 words of English, which is 3 more than the last truck driver.
We stop at a fruit stall at the side of the road. The youngest of the two gets out and returns with a big bag of Armenian pears. Armenian pears are the best pears in the world. An easy predicate when your world is as big as Armenia.
I get a ride from a father and son who show me their application for a Dutch passport. The conversation goes a bit more fluent than the others but still I am embarrassed I don’t speak any Russian. The father is complaining about the roads and its soviet cars polluting it and the people driving it. He hasn’t finished his story yet or we drive past a nasty car accident. He touches the cross hanging on the rear mirror and sobs quietly.
The car has trouble getting over a hill. After the hill we try to get as much speed as possible to get over the next one. The next one is a bit longer and at a bit over halfway the car stands completely still. The son gets out of the car and asks me to join. We push the car uphill. People from another car join us. We are pushing for 10 minutes before we reach the top. We have to hurry. We jump in and let the car get up to speed again, ready for another hill. This one is shorter and we only have to push two minutes. After this hill the car easily slides at a petrol station.
‘You see: Russian quality.’ The father laughs.
While they wait for their car to be repaired I am sticking my thumb out. It was a fun, bonding experience, but if this is the way things go I have to take all the chances I get to be in Yerevan before sunset.
A dark purple car stops. It lowers its right window. Four big guys stare at me. Their face and arms are painted with tattoos of snakes, holy maries and swords and they’re wearing golden necklaces half their body weight around their neck. The guy in the front passenger seat gets out and folds the seat forward. I undo my backpack and crawl in between the two gangsters in the back with my backpack on my lap. The three of us are twice as broad as the car, so it is getting cozy. They ask my name and country of origin and then we have exhausted their English vocabulary and my Armenian/Russian. After five minutes of staring they decide to kick me out.
It is getting dark and I am still one hundred kilometers away from Yerevan.
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